Barrow (Utqiaġvik), Alaska
Walk on the ocean where the sun forgets to set
Field Note 003
Overview
Perched on Alaska's northernmost coast, Utqiaġvik (oot-kee-AHG-vik) is the northernmost community in the United States. Here the Arctic Ocean meets the tundra, the sun disappears for weeks each winter and refuses to set for months each summer. It's one of the easiest places in the world to experience life above the Arctic Circle.
What There Is to See
Point Barrow, the northernmost point in the United States.
The Arctic tundra, an immense, remarkably flat landscape dotted with thousands of shallow ponds during the brief summer thaw.
The Arctic Ocean and seasonal sea ice. Depending on the time of year, you may find yourself standing on sea ice rather than the shoreline.
Wildlife, including migratory birds, seals, whales, and occasionally polar bears. During our late June visit, birds were by far the most abundant wildlife.
Whalebone arches and bowhead whale skulls, reminders of the region's long whaling tradition and the immense size of these Arctic giants.
Nalukataq (nah-loo-kah-TAHK), the annual Iñupiat whaling celebration featuring traditional food, dancing, gift-giving, and the famous blanket toss after a successful whale hunt.
The Iñupiat Heritage Center, where exhibits and programs introduce visitors to the history, traditions, and modern life of Alaska's northernmost communities.
The midnight sun or the polar night. Visit in summer for weeks of continuous daylight, or in winter to experience weeks without sunrise.
What Surprised Us
Before visiting, we pictured the Arctic as a frozen, lifeless expanse. Instead, summer revealed an unexpectedly flat and wet landscape. From the air, the tundra looked alien with its patchwork of a thousand shallow ponds stretching to the horizon.
We were also surprised by how much life was packed into such a harsh environment. Grasses and wildflowers dotted the road edges, birds seemed to be everywhere, and standing beneath a bowhead whale jawbone made us appreciate just how enormous these animals really are.
Even the weather had its own rhythm. Although the sun never sets during summer, thick fog rolled in, creating a couple of hours of erie twilight at nearly noon, before breaking up to reveal the sun again.
Continue Exploring
Watch on YouTube
Read Deeper
The Big Miracle: Inspired by the Incredible True Story that United the World by Tom Rose
More Field Notes on Extreme Landscapes
White Sands: Where water evaporates and leaves behind unusal sand.
La Brea Tar Pits: Not all extreme landscapes are remote.
Plan Your Field Trip
Most visitors arrive by air from Anchorage via Alasaka Airlines (driving is not really an option).
Flights may be only once or twice per day and can be cancelled due to weather in any season.
Summer offers continuous daylight and easier travel.
Winter brings the polar night and opportunities to see the aurora.
Respect local wildlife
Be prepared for cool, rapidly changing weather, even in summer, highs are unlikely to reach 50°F (10°C) with lows near freezing.